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Francis F's avatar

Great that you wrote a diary Wendy, made me chuckle throughout, especially “Carol and I just had crusty bread left and a cheese triangle” 😂 Takes me back to my own travel through Greece when I did Greek island hoping. The good old days. I felt like I was there with you. So vivid.

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Thanks, Francis. Which islands did you "hop" onto? Later, I visited some of the Cyclades, as well as Crete and Santorini. There's something really memorable about the ones you visit without a plan!

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Francis F's avatar

Yes I remember you telling me you went to Santorini, when I did a post almost a year ago about Greek Island hoping. It’s so beautiful, I’d love to go again. I went to Tinos, Mykonos, Santorini, Naxos, Paros, Milos, and Samos ! The freedom of days long gone😢

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Aha! THAT explains why I had a feeling of déja vous! Doh! Just looking to re-read and can’t spot it. Is it archived?

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Francis F's avatar

Heehee, it’s very long !! Give it a miss 🤣 you already read it 😂 I don’t know how to archive ? It’s in Shadows of the heart , Dan , not sure what part 😁

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Wendy Varley's avatar

I am definitely going back to re-read it, Francis! Thanks for the pointer!

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Francis F's avatar

Aww thanks Wendy , I think I will too 😁

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Maria McCarthy's avatar

What intrepid travellers! Something I intended to do, but was too nervous and only got as far as St Ives one summer. I did laugh at the Factor 4, seeing as we're all told to go with 50 today.

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Wendy Varley's avatar

St Ives is quite far, though, depending on where you start from, Maria!

These days I'm slathered in factor 50, even if it's raining!

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Caroline McCormick-Clarke🐆🧀🎨✍️'s avatar

Congratulations on your one year anniversary on Substack Wendy. I always enjoy your articles - and the talent you have in bringing the reader right back to a particular time in the past.

This time 1984. Cyndi Lauper and Frankie Goes to Hollywood. I was travelling in the US summer, working on a J1 visa. But I can remember my first journey to Greece - island hopping on the ferries. Had to sleep on a rooftop in Santorini one night. There wasn’t a B & B or hostel to be found. I can still remember listening in the dark to the quiet snoring and breathing of other travellers sleeping on the same rooftop. I was with my boyfriend so I didn’t feel nervous at all.

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Thank you, Caroline. Really kind of you.

I visited Crete and Santorini with Ian when we met in 1986. Fond memories. Santorini is stunning! (It has some very picturesque rooftops so I can imagine that just added to the atmosphere!)

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Grace's avatar

Fabulous memories, how brilliant that you kept a diary. Wish I had.

Apart from a 1972 road trip around France, Switzerland and Germany with a boyfriend before I started nurse training it had only been holidays with children in tow.

For our Silver Wedding celebration OH and I decided on rucksacks and a euro rail pass. The day itself had been 9/11 and we felt we’d really missed out on marking the moment so the next year we set off.

Ferry to Santander, then onto Bilbao where we did the Guggenheim and felt very uncomfortable until we realised OH’s shirt was the same as the local police and that’s why people were staring at us so suspiciously (maybe). Night train to Barcelona sitting opposite a couple who should definitely have booked a couchette, Grimaldi ferry across the Med ( while I read The Awakening for my OU Lit course) and then train all around Europe.

Wonderful memories but no diary and one dreadful pic taken as we boarded the ferry, and which then cost us an arm and a leg to buy.

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Wendy Varley's avatar

I love that, Grace – your backpacking trip to belatedly celebrate your Silver Wedding anniversary. Great that you both had that appetite for adventure. Yes, night train travel companions are such a lottery. (Might have been worse if you'd been stuck in a couchette with them!) The Awakening sounds like fitting reading for the trip! I haven't read that book, but looking it up now, I think I'd enjoy it.

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Grace's avatar
8dEdited

I suspect we were trying to keep up with our very adventurous children!

I’d only had space for three books all of which were bad choices so left those on Las Ramblas, found the ‘English’ shelf in a bookshop and there was Kate Chopin. It was strangely perfect. The book oozes heat & of course the ending involves the sea & Kate Chopins’s descriptions of it are superb.

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Putting it on my book list right now, thanks for the tip, Grace.

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Margaret Bennett's avatar

This is just magical. Seeing Europe through your eyes for the first time. It had me howling in places. What an adventure Wendy. And Factor 4!

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Thanks, Margaret. I know! Factor 4?! What was I thinking? I can date the liver spots I have now back to that trip.

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Liz Gwedhan's avatar

We could have bumped into each other! I wandered this route several times in the early eighties. I didn't Interrail but went with my then husband in a clapped out old Austion 1100 and a moth-eaten tent. I remember getting of the ferry from Brindisi and eating at the bus station in Corfu Town then trying to find the loo. It was ancient and when I pulled the chain the cistern on the wall above my head fell forward and the whole contents fell on my head. I walked back into the restaurant totally drenched and every one laughed. It had clearly happened before!

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Wendy Varley's avatar

OMG, Liz! That's more than you bargained for! What was your favourite place on your travels?

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Liz Gwedhan's avatar

I loved the moment the we after having driven over the Alps we crossed into Italy. The effect on my mood was instantaneous. In terms of places - Spoleto in Umbria, Vicenza for the architecture, eating wild mushrooms collected that morning in the Dolomites...happy happy times.

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Wonderful! Yes, it's extraordinary the effect just arriving in another country (and climate) can have on your mood. I visited Umbria years ago with my family, but not Spoleto. Italy's such a gorgeous country.

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Sasha Neal's avatar

Wonderfully detailed memories Wendy, thanks for sharing them with us! Brought back memories of Greek island hopping in my 20s and ferry trips to France in my teens. I never went Interrailing though, I saved up for travels in India instead. By a strange coincidence, I was at the Oral History Society conference last week and very much enjoyed a presentation on research into Interrailing between 1972 and 1997. I can send you the abstract if you like!

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Ooh yes, please, Sasha! I'd be interested to read that. I'll DM you.

What was your favourite Greek island? I went back several times afterwards to different parts of Greece, but have a soft spot for the Ionian islands, because of that first trip.

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Sasha Neal's avatar

That’s a hard one. In my 20s I went round the Cyclades and stayed on some tiny islands as well as Ios, and liked all of them, but I’d probably have to say either Karpathos or Crete

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Wendy Varley's avatar

I have vivid memories of Crete, which Ian and I visited when we first met. And of Santorini. Every island is unique! I haven't visited Karpathos.

I returned to Kefalonia when my daughters were little and it was great to spend more time there, instead of just waiting for the next ferry out!

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Ian Lacey's avatar

Thank you for attending my presentation Sasha. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Sent you an email, Ian! (Presume you saw, if you found this link to my Substack.) Glad Sasha has put us in touch.

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Ian Lacey's avatar

Me too Wendy. I have sent you an email.

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Sasha Neal's avatar

It was great! Nice to see you here

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Sasha Neal's avatar

PS my sons and I are loving RATW. Although it keeps making me cry (especially Brian and Melvyn ❤️)

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Yes, I like all the contestants this time, and the journeys have been spectacular. I'll be glued to it tonight. Brian and Melvyn chalk and cheese, but similarly generous spirits. Lovely.

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Cherry Coombe's avatar

I am very impressed by your diary keeping Wendy. I felt I had returned to 1984 to travel with you and Carol - and I love the ways in which the grit, insects, overwhelm and indigestion, otherwise sanitised in holiday snaps, are all present and alive in your travel writing.

A vivid piece.

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Thanks, Cherry. The trickiest piece yet to edit, as my diary of the trip was practically a book! Removed 99% of the cheese baps!

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Cherry Coombe's avatar

Tricky!

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Prajna O'Hara's avatar

Hi Wendy

this whole piece is delicious. You are definitely not an armchair, adventure by any measure. I love that you take copious notes and that you share this travel journey with us. I haven’t traveled much as a tourist mostly with my work. My daughter was recently in Italy for close to a month and wants to return. She loved it so much. Thank you for this beautiful piece.

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Thanks, Prajna. I can see why your daughter loves Italy! Where was she based? I've been back to Italy and Greece since (less rushed!), and absolutely love both countries.

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Alex Varley-Winter's avatar

This is lovely. I really enjoyed interrailing with L when she was 1yo, but didn’t keep a diary & it wasn’t nearly as eventful a trip as yours! People don’t talk to one another quite so much in the smartphone age. Still lots to see though.

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Wendy Varley's avatar

You were really brave to go interrailing with a one-year old, Alex! Kudos!

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Fiona Whittaker's avatar

Factor 4…!!! Can you imagine?? And having to change currency in every European country - feels like another world!

Happy Substack anniversary - I always get a little dopamine hit when I see your name in my email inbox.

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Thanks, Fiona! Pre- euros, digital comms and sensible sunscreen :D

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Sue Sutherland-Wood's avatar

Love this! Such a tapestry of detail - especially your meals.

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Thanks, Sue! I edited out a LOT of food, as we pretty much lived on Greek yoghurt, nuts and bread, on rotation!

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CG Karas's avatar

I was in Italy 2 summers, Pavia, and Palermo, for architecture seminars. You bring back a flood of great images and memories. What a great adventure you had. Kicking myself for not keeping a diary

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Two Italian cities I haven’t visited, CG! It’s such a gorgeous country.

Thanks for the restack.

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CG Karas's avatar

Forgot to mention, it was 83 and 84. Also visited many other cities while there. I don't think one could have the same kinds of experiences today, to put it mildly. Thanks again

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Lyndsey Resnick's avatar

You keep the best diaries. What an adventure! And memories. :)

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Thanks, Lyndsey. I’d forgotten how spontaneous it all was! Was glad to unearth the diary, which I thought was long gone.

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Jacqui Gatehouse's avatar

Wonderful, evocative post Wendy. I never went interrailing though many of my friends did. I'm planning to make up for that by touring around in our new camper van - the 'older' persons version of interrailing, with a little luxury thrown in!

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Thanks, Jacqui. I love your camper van option. Haven't got one, but my sister and brother-in-law get so much from theirs. And you never have to worry about where you're going to sleep!

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Elaine R. Frieman's avatar

Everything you write is so charming! Love this! Can’t wait for the memoir eventually. 🤣🫶🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻🤩

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Wendy Varley's avatar

Oh, thank you, Elaine! Gives me such a boost.

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